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Journal of Lipid Research, Vol. 45, 923-932, May 2004
Copyright © 2004 by American Society for Biochemistry and Molecular Biology

Novel lipid mixtures based on synthetic ceramides reproduce the unique stratum corneum lipid organization

Miranda W. de Jager^*, Gert S. Gooris^*, Igor P. Dolbnya, Wim Bras, Maria Ponec and Joke A. Bouwstra^1,*

^* Leiden/Amsterdam Center for Drug Research, Department of Drug Delivery Technology, University of Leiden, Leiden, The Netherlands
Netherlands Organization for Scientific Research, Dutch-Belgium Beam-Line Collaborative Research Group, European Synchrotron Radiation Facility, Grenoble, France
Department of Dermatology, Leiden University Medical Center, Leiden, The Netherlands

¹ To whom correspondence should be addressed. e-mail: bouwstra{at}chem.leidenuniv.nl

Lipid lamellae present in the outermost layer of the skin protect the body from uncontrolled water loss. In human stratum corneum (SC), two crystalline lamellar phases are present, which contain mostly cholesterol, free fatty acids, and nine types of free ceramides. Previous studies have demonstrated that the SC lipid organization can be mimicked with model mixtures based on isolated SC lipids. However, those studies are hampered by low availability and high interindividual variability of the native tissue. To elucidate the role of each lipid class in the formation of a competent skin barrier, the use of synthetic lipids would offer an alternative. The small- and wide-angle X-ray diffraction results of the present study show for the first time that synthetic lipid mixtures, containing only three synthetic ceramides, reflect to a high extent the SC lipid organization. Both an appropriately chosen preparation method and lipid composition promote the formation of two characteristic lamellar phases with repeat distances similar to those found in native SC.

From all synthetic lipid mixtures examined, equimolar mixtures of cholesterol, ceramides, and free fatty acids equilibrated at 80°C resemble to the highest extent the lamellar and lateral SC lipid organization, both at room and increased temperatures.

Supplementary key words permeability • skin • X-ray diffraction

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